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Fans of vintage port will give three cheers to mention of the name Naçional. It’s one of Portugal’s most famous, and it’s been made by Quinta do Noval for over 60 years. But in the case of this particular bottle, 1996 was the magical year. In the hills of Pinhão, the vines flourish with the boldest grapes, and that opens up the tannin-rich palate dominated by plum notes. Spiced and earthy hints follow through from nose to finish; to that we say, felicidades.